10 responses so far ↓

• 1 Hacker

  Bought this for my mother-in-law. Perfect size HDTV (46″) for her TV room which is about 12′ x 12′. Amazon had the best price, and the delivery men were very careful bringing it into the house and installing the HDTV.

• 2 Ives

  Does the lamp burn out and have to be replaced on this model? If so, what is the serial number of the replacement bulb?

• 3 Raymond

  ALL OK, BUT IS JUST TO PLAY GAMES ON ZBOX AND SEE HD MOVIES, FOR REGULAR TV SUCKS

• 4 Karch

  Received this TV from the shipping company. The outside shipping vendor was very courteous and delivered this TV inside our home. The setup was a “no brainer”. Very easy. The guide to plug in other components was very easy as well. We have 2 other Sony Bravia TVs (32″ and 40″). We have always been very satisfied with Sony products and this new TV is no exception. The remote is very easy to use and the screen setup is very user friendly. We have been shopping for this TV for some time and the best price was on Amazon, especially when you consider the free shipping and no tax.

• 5 Huerta

  I purchased this tv in March 2009 and by September the HDMI inputs stopped working. Great tv if the HDMI inputs hadn’t always acted weird then one day the HDMI inputs just stopped working entirely.

  Just starting to work with Sony on getting it replaced/repaired.

• 6 Genova

  Great Job amazon raise the price for cyber monday from 1699 i guess i wont be buying it today

• 7 Puterbaugh

  I know it is crazy to say that the picture quality on this LCD is too clear or too real but it is for broadcast shows especially. Live action footage was amazing. Viewing a football game felt like your were in on the tackle and the sweat from the players was going to drop on you. Viewing a normal broadcast show(ie Law and Order, White Collar, Trauma) felt like you were on the set or watching a documentary. I called Samsung to ask if the 240hz could be switched off and they said no. I don’t think this would be a difficult option to offer since they have a demo mode that splits the screen to show the difference in 60hz and 240hz while the set is being displayed in retail stores. I would have kept the set if I could have swithed off the 240hz while watching broadcast programs.

• 8 Beaver

  after spending hours researching and reading review I went out and bought this TV, I was buying Sony Exclusively for over 15 years so it wasn’t easy to make the change but I can’t be happier

• 9 Herring

  I use these chiefly for my computers.

  Two things you need to know about having a Samsung LCD, of any of the kinds and sizes they make:

  1. They’ll work perfectly fine if you attach a computer as one of the components: the “auto-adjust” feature really does work, and there is no residual fuzziness or unwanted screen crop — although you’d better have a state-of-the art video card on your computer for this to render the crisp picture you’re dreaming of. The one that comes on a garden-variety laptop will never do. This is something I was unclear on at first. When I brought my first one home, I eagerly hooked it up to my computer, awaiting the ultimate 40″ video gaming experience. To my dismay, the picture lacked fine resolution, making the experience very unsatisfying. I tried everything: changing the settings on my video cards, exhaustively combing the Samsung’s menus, replacing all relevant cables with top-of-the-line brand-name cables, and more. It was only after everything failed that I realized this wasn’t a shortcoming with Samsung’s hardware at all. It was because my computer’s video card, while fine for a 19″ conventional computer monitor, was inadequate to the task of projecting on to something that was 40″ and still maintaining that fine, crystal clear definition that you demand. It seemed like everybody understood this but me. Anyhow, if you’re planning on using one of these for your computer, make sure that you have the best video card you can buy.

  I use one of these for my computer at work (40 inches: I’m insane), and another, slightly smaller one for my home computer. As I say, they work EXTREMELY well for this purpose, which is why I have three of them total: I’m too leery to switch brands. For example, the TV, when you use it as a computer monitor, has enough brains to shut down when your computer goes to sleep, and then to fire back up again when your computer wakes up — all without your having to touch the monitor at all!

  2. If used as a TV, this set can evidently do a lot. Tragically, this will require you to get educated about the latest cables and connectors. For example, I am wont to connect all my devices (Playstations, cable connections, VHS players, DVD players, Blue-ray players, satellite links, etc.) with red-white-yellow connectors, or, preferably, red-white-red-green-blue connectors. As for the latter, this only has two rows available, plus an extra red-white-yellow on the TV’s left side (facing the screen). However, it has an array of other adapters (such as HDMI adapters) that I’m still learning about. (These basically look like jumbo-sized USB cables, but can carry high definition sound and audio together in one cable). If you’re unclear on the in’s and out’s of this stuff, read the exchange in the comments below, which I found helpful. I have never, for example, learned how to get the monitor’s on-board speakers to route the sound the computer’s putting out.

  Credentials: I have three of these, different sizes.

• 10 Vales

  Ok, to start off, I’d like to point you guys to 2 links:

  [...]

  These two will definitely help with questions and general information that a new purchaser will want to know. As technology expands, consumers need to know more and more about the technology they’re purchasing. Can’t rely on the Geek Squad or sales people to steer you right. Monster HDMI Cables Anyone? For the record, in HDMI, it’s a digital signal. It’s either there or it’s not. You can get cables from Amazon or monoprice (see top of AVS Forum) for $3 that will do just the same job as Monster and leave you feeling good.

  I’ve seen a lot of reviews that cover picture quality and features ect. but nothing that really covers gaming on a 360. I use my tv for 90% gaming and 10% Tv and Blu-ray. Onto the Gaming.

  Input Lag:
  This probably the biggest concern most often vocalized by gamers and the biggest overall concern TV manufacturers have when trying to reach the ever-growing gaming audience. Input lag is defined as the time it takes for an input given on a controller/device to be registered on the tv. In other words, input lag is how fast after you press the melee button that you actually see your character melee on your screen. This TV has some of this, but there are work around for it. It’s actually important to know where this input lag comes from and what steps one can take for this tv.

  Consumers want the best picture quality, with the greatest clarity, sharpness, brightness, definition, and smoothness possible. People want to turn on their tv and be shocked off their chairs at how beautiful the coral reef is and how fast Sidney Crosby actually is at Hockey. In order to provide this, tv manufacturers have added crap loads of processing and enhancements to the tv. By doing this, they have been able to create almost life-like images and please the ever-quality hungry consumers. Is this good news or bad news for gamers? IT’S BAD NEWS!!!!

  All of this added processing and enhancements hurt the gamer because this is extra “work” that needs to be done BEFORE the picture is displayed on the screen; and that “work” takes time - therein lies the Catch 22. Here’s the breakdown: When viewing Blu-ray or watching tv, the tv is only concerned with displaying the picture. The tv plays by it’s own rules and does not have to operate in real time. Hypothetically, say you start playing a movie at time 0 by pressing the play button. The movie starts displaying at time 2 seconds and goes on without a hitch. In that 2 seconds the tv does its processing/enhancements/conversions and the viewer feels like he’s watching the tv in real time; but actually he’s 2 seconds behind - but it doesn’t matter. In GAMING, the inputs are constantly changing and split second decisions are necessary for the win. For each button press on the controller, the processing starts all over since it’s technically a new feed and the ensuing image must be processed. Add these button presses and the following processing and you get lag.

  CRTs (Cathode Ray Tubes - the old school tvs) did not have this problem since there wasn’t any processing to be done. They simply displayed what was sent. I had a 32in RCA that I played on before I got the B750. This is what I’ll use to make my comparisons.

  2ms Response Time:
  A very common misconception is that the the response time of 2ms takes care of this lag issue. This is simply not the case as response time is the time that it takes a crystal to go from black to white to black again. This does not aid lag at all but does aid in fast moving sports. I’ll mention it here, but many people like Plasma tvs since they seem to have less input lag than LCDs. However, the Image Retention (IR) and threats of Burn In cause people to shy away from plasmas. How’d you like to have the outline of a HUD or status bar still be visible when you’re watching tv?

  Out of the Box Lag:
  Right out of the box, Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 2 was completely unplayable. To illustrate, I would move to look and there would be a noticeable 1/2 second delay - Really sucks when you’re trying to scope someone. Each move was accompanied by this delay.

  Lag Fixes - Game Mode:
  This is Samsung’s solution to the processing problems associated with their LCDs. What it does is pretty much disables a lot of the internal processing as well as disabling some user settings that affect this processing. What’s compromised (to my naked eye) is color vibrancy, motion control, and edge enhancements. Game Mode really does help the lag. I’ve noticed a definite improvement in zoomed in scoping adjustments. The only thing that I had to do is adjust the sensitivity in the game itself. Coming from a CRT with no lag, I can tell a difference (Very SLIGHT) between the CRT and the B750. I did however play several games and did very well, but noticed that something was “off”. I found that game mode was not enabled - it was my sensitivity to lag that alerted me.

  Lag Fixes - PC Rename
  Another, quite popular fix is to rename DVI/HDMI1 as PC. What people realized is that due to the VGA cable capabilities and nature of internet content, the processing had to be taken down some and other enhancements made because viewing text on the tv was hard and cumbersome. This fix is a “middle of the road” correction since it does not affect the true heart and cause of input lag. It does tend to keep color vitality though. When I tried this fix, I found that it was better than having Game Mode Off, but not better than Game Mode On from an Input Lag standpoint.

  Lag Fixes - Enhancements Off
  In another attempt, I turned off the AMP (Auto Motion Plus), Dynamic Contrast, Edge Enhancements, and all other non-essential PQ (Picture Quality) adjustments. It was worse than PC rename but better than no adjustments. Picture quality was fine, but I’m not to care how much detail there is, just so that I can play to win.

  Lag Fixes - My Set-up and Component VS HDMI
  What I settled on was using HDMI from my Elite, turning off Enhancements, and putting Game Mode On. This seems to be the best for me and gives the greatest response. I did use component cables for a little bit. The reason being is that with component, the signal tends to send an over saturation of colors (Colors are really deep). This tended to fix the sub-prime PQ and restored some color vibrancy. I did end up replacing this with HDMI since I started to notice a bit of Lag. I’ve also read that HDMI tends to be faster than component. From reading the forums above, most people who have timed their system using Rock Band or Guitar Hero have reported input lag of around 30 to 35 milliseconds (some rare cases .65 milliseconds). That equates to .03 to .035 seconds. Not bad, but still not great - most people will not notice it.

  Other Comments and Reviews:

  The customer images of Megan Fox from Transformers 2 and the football game with Tom Brady are from my tv. Great Picture Quality and detail.

  Menus -
  Decently fast and animated. Takes a bit to get used to but you’ll soon be whipping around the selections. One nice feature is that when you’re making an adjustment, there’s some text that shows up and explains/defines what you’re adjusting - quite helpful.

  Energy Saver -
  Nothing ticks me off more than people saying something is “green” or “eco-friendly” and therefore a great buy. I have no qualms about being smart with the environment and being responsible with what I’m given - China’s Industry regulations anyone? I do have a problem with compromising quality on the basis that it’s better and greener and a must use. Case and Point - those energy saver light bulbs with the cylindrical curves. Samsung jumped on board the “green” wagon, misguided though it is, and came up with CE Dimming to earn the energy saver seal. In it’s simplest form, CE Dimming darkens the screen when the screen is dark and darkens the screen when there’s bright light on the screen. This is rather annoying especially since it’s not timed right and you can notice it get darker. To turn it off:

  Turn the power off. On the remote, press Mute followed by 1, 8, 2, Power in sequence. The TV will turn on and you should now see the service menu. Down arrow to Advanced. Press 0000. Then down arrow (not right arrow!) until you get to CE Dimming. Hit Enter. Down arrow to Standard or Movie and right arrow to switch it off. Hit Power to exit the service menu.

  YOUR SETTINGS WILL BE RESET REGARDLESS IF YOU CHANGE ANYTHING IN THE SERVICE MENU OR NOT!

  DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE IN THE SERVICE MENU UNLESS YOU ACTUALLY KNOW WHAT YOU’RE DOING. YOU’LL BRICK YOUR TV!

  Widgets:
  Pretty much these suck! Slow load times on multiple levels. Some say that firmware updates have fixed the load times; but others say that the FW updates have actually messed with their settings. Since Samsung does not post what the FW updates actually fix, it’s impossible to know what you’re actually updating. I wouldn’t update unless you had to.

  Remote Control Infrared:
  The remote is a bit picky about where it’s being pointed. It has to be pointed at the right bottom by the red light in order to be recognized. It’s a bit of a problem if you’re not used to it. The other thing is that if you have a Samsung Blu-ray player, you’ll probably get interference like I did between the two of them.

  Movie Mode, Standard, Dynamic Modes:
  Most people use Movie Mode for their mode of choice. I found that movie mode is a bit too dark (could be my set). Dynamic mode is what Best Buy uses to show how bright the set can be. It tends to be too vibrant and will no doubt shorten your backlight. I use Standard for my viewing. It’s a good middle ground if you will and I feel that it provides a more natural feel than the other two. I am going to try some more settings in Movie Mode and see what I get - to be posted later.

  Closing:
  As I said in the beginning, Most people have already done a pretty good job of reviewing this. I just didn’t find anything about gaming. Most of what I’ve written can also be applied to PS3 since from the forums that I’ve read, they seem to be similar. I do Play on Xbox Live a lot as well as in-game. Hope this helps people. At the time of writing this, I just watched the Steelers play the Ravens on NBC through the air. It was amazing.

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